Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Living in Perth For a Month

Hello All,

Sorry, it has been awhile. At least it feels like it has. That's what tends to happen when I stop moving around and seeing new things, I guess.

Anyhow. Let me get you up to speed. After completing my hike from Albany to Walpole (for a total of a measly 200km), I caught a bus and a train back up to Perth instead of hiking the remaining 760-odd kilometres. My legs thanked me for it, though I was definitely recovering from the pain of the first half of the trip by the time I got to Walpole. I spent a total of about 7 or 8 nights on the track, and each time I had a whole hut all to myself. Often there was reading material, and thankfully there was always water. And you could always find amusement in reading the random things that people wrote in the log book. Someday I would like to hike the whole track.

But not this month. In this instance, I was quite happy to get back to Perth. Back at turtle camp, it so happens that I met a very nice Aussie bloke named Michael. His place is my temporary home for the next month. I am staying at Murdoch University, acting as an imposter student. Well, I'm not going to classes or anything, but I did go and play ultimate with a bunch of students last night. If you want to know how to reach me as the snails do, let me know and I will send you Michael's address.

My current task is to find myself some sort of work (volunteer or otherwise) to occupy my spare time until the end of March when I fly out East to meet up with Scott for some further wilderness explorations. And I am working on the pictures. Slowly but surely, they shall appear.

Katiekat.

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Then again, maybe I wouldn't.

I don't like the idea of cutting back on my goal. To walk 500km (or more) sounds like a real accomplishment. But, alas, it is not to be. Not this time around anyhow.

Things started out with a splash. Or more of a dribble, really. It was when I went to buy those matches that I opened the lid of my pack where my 2L water bladder was stored and found that everything was wet. So the first stop after matches was the outdoor store to buy a new water container.

Things picked up when I stopped by the visitors' centre at the trailhead and managed to get a copy of the guidebook for the southern half of the trail for $15 - a bargain since it's normally $35. Thus, truly prepared, I set off.

The first day was pretty easy. I covered 20km, much of which was just walking on a boardwalk next to the beach out of town. Then over a hill and into a park with some really nice views out over the ocean from the clifftops. Eventually I crested a little hill and saw a little troupe of wind-power generators gracefully sweeping around and around. I saw three snakes on the trail as the shadows started to grow longer, but they were all pretty small and skittered off as I approached. I was a bit concerned by the fact that I was feeling rather tired and didn't arrive at the hut until 6 hours or more after I had left town, as I didn't think that the terrain warranted much exertion. But I had a good looong night's sleep and felt good in the morning.

The second day I decided to get an early start and to cover two sections (i.e. to skip Torbay Hut and sleep at the next one). The total distance was 33km - long, but certainly manageable. Well, as the day wore on, I found that my legs were getting dreadfully sore and stiff, the enormous blisters that had developed the day before were multiplying and worsening, and by 1 or 2 pm I was hobbling rather than walking. I just couldn't sort out what was wrong with me! I hadn't done any hiking for a month, but I had done some before that and hadn't been so defeated by it. I was feeling incredibly discouraged and it felt like it would take a gigantic effort even just to make it to the next town. Still, I managed to make it to the hut before sunset, somehow.

I had lots of sleep and took my time getting ready on the morning of the third day. I did lots of stretches and had a big breakfast. Then, painfully, I laced up my shoes and headed off. I had decided I would make it an easy day - only the 16km to the next hut. About a kilometer onwards, I had to stop for my first break. There were many such breaks, with stints of painful hobbling in between. I still could not figure out what the source of all these difficulties could be. Was I really that out of shape? By the last 2 kms of the walk, I had resorted to singing ALL of "99 Bottles of Beer On the Wall" just to distract me from the pain and to keep myself going. It didn't help that it was scorchingly hot either.

On the morning of the fourth day, as I was about to put on my shoes, I had a thought. Perhaps at least my feet would be a little more comfortable if I wore my sandals instead. The shoes had caused me all sorts of blisters and besides, they were a bit tight with the wool socks on (just a little snake protection) and filling up with sand all the time. Though blisters aren't really all that painful except right after you've stopped, I thought it would be nice to have a little change. WELL. Within 5 minutes of walking, I realized that my shoes had been the problem all along. Suddenly my calf muscles which had hurt with every step felt fine again. My hip even started to feel better. I soon came to believe that I had been effectively walking the last 75km in stilettos. The combination of the wool socks and the sand filling the toes of my shoes must have been causing me to curl up my toes more than I realized, and this had led to all sorts of strange muscles aches and tensions. For the first couple of hours of my walk that day, I felt better with every step, much unlike the previous 3 days.

Needless to say, the remaining portion of my hike will be done in the sandals.

But what is the remaining portion? Well, despite starting to feel better, my feet are still pretty beat up and my legs pretty sore. Last night, I stayed with a nice family who saw my Canada flag on my pack as I was walking into town. We had some delicious garden-fresh basil pesto and salad for dinner, I had fun playing with 3 year old Molly, and best of all, I had a shower :). Tonight I have moved into the backpackers' here in the town of Denmark, and I have been spending a lazy day resting my legs and getting my knotted hair chopped off.

Tomorrow, I intend to carry on on the track. I will probably take it easy as far as Walpole, which is about 100km further along. Then, well, that will likely be the end of this trek on the Bibbulmun. Perhaps I will come back another time to do the remaining 700+ kilometers. A bit of a disappointment, I suppose, but I'd rather do the hike when I'll actually enjoy it.

Cheerio,
kat.

Friday, February 10, 2006

I would walk 500 km..

So, here I am in Albany. I have just purchased enough oatmeal to last me for a month and I am nearly ready to start hiking up the Bibbulmun Track. In my pack can be found a minimum of clothing, my new harmonica (since I left my old one at home), and 3 of the 40 fantabulous mangoes that we purchased from someone's backyard on the way from Exmouth to Busselton. The only thing I'm short on is matches. I keep chanting in my head "matches, matches, matches" since it would be a sad thing if I forgot to get any more and had to eat my oatmeal and bourghul raw.

I think this first day is going to be a short one by the time I finally get out on the trail, which I have a feeling may be a bit of a trek from town (I will sort out those details soon enough). Starting tomorrow, I will be picking up the pace, however, since I would like to cover at least 500kms by the end of the month, at which point I will bus the remainder of the distance back to Perth. Hmm 29km a day. Might be doable.

You will probably hear from me again before the trip is completed since I do pass through a few towns along the way and might need to stop for something more to go with my oatmeal.

I'm not sure if I mentioned in my last post that I have added a few new pictures to my gallery.. you can see them here. Hopefully there will be a few more showing up once I get to Perth.

Bye for now!

Kat

Sunday, February 05, 2006

Snorkel Shnorkel

Snorkelling is awesome! Over the past week, I have been snorkelling nearly every day. I have seen thousands of tropical fish, 3 green turtles, 2 live sharks and 1.5 dead ones, a moray eel, enormous blue starfish, a stingray with a 2.5m long barb, a sea urchin with 30cm long spines, and a giant clam about as wide as my forearm, among other things.

In other news, today is my last day in Exmouth monitoring turtles. Starting early tomorrow morning I will be catching a ride as far south as Busselton, from where I plan to catch a bus to Albany and start walking my way northward on the Bibbulmum track. I don't really expect to do the whole track after all, but I'd like to cover at least 500km or so. I'm looking forward to getting south and to a cooler climate. It has been gorgeous here, but every minute that you're not in the water or an air-conditioned room, you are making plans for how you will next attain one of those states.

Hmm, what else do I have to say? Well, I tried my very first lamington yesterday. Though I don't have much praise for Australian baking in general, and though they didn't look very appealing to me from the start, this one was actually quite tasty. It was jam-filled, which apparently isn't quite traditional, but I think it was a good addition.

Well, that's all for now.. I'm not feeling particularly inspired at the moment. Next up, a report from the track!

Kat

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